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Before
planting a potted rose, remove the paper pot or container.
Dig a large hole at least twice the width and depth of the
container. Enrich soil with 1/3 part peat moss or compost before
using it to refill the planting hole. For grafted roses, plant the
knobby joint (bud union) 2 to 3 inches below the soil. Own root
roses should be planted with the crown of the plant slightly below
the soil line.
Roses
require full sun and adequate moisture.
Plant roses in an area where they will receive at least 6 hours of
sun a day. Roses thrive when watered deeply with a slow trickle.
Soak once weekly during dry periods. To discourage the spread of
fungi, avoid getting water on the leaves late in the day.
Roses are
heavy feeders and require monthly fertilization.
All purpose rose food or Miracle-Gro is recommended. Removing faded
flowers will often hasten repeat bloom. Do not fertilize after
August 10th.
Roses are
susceptible to insects and diseases.
Aphids, spider mites, rust,
powdery mildew, and black spot are common problems. An all-purpose
rose dust or spray containing an insecticide and fungicide is
recommended. Spray or dust at weekly intervals or after every rain
for optimum results. Many diseases such as black spot and rust are
harbored over winter in surrounding soil and on contaminated
foliage. It is easier to prevent diseases than to cure them.
Johannsen’s suggests applying lime sulfur on the soil around each
plant, using the dormant strength dilution, and removing all
infected foliage in spring and fall.
Protecting
roses is essential if they are to survive Wisconsin winters.
All roses, with the exception of the hardy climbers, need to have
winter protection in our area. See the section below titled
“Mulching”. .
In
general, don’t start to protect your roses too early.
Wait for a hard, killing frost, usually after the temperature has
dropped to 13-18 degrees Fahrenheit for several consecutive nights.
Covering too early will encourage rodents to nest in your mounds.
Remember that you are covering your rose bushes to keep the bushes
frozen, not to keep them warm!
Pruning.
We do not advise fall pruning unless your area is exposed to
unusually strong winter winds. Prune back to live wood in early
spring to approximately a height of 10-12”. Always prune to an
outward-facing bud so new growth won’t crowd the center of the
plant. Climbing roses have long-lived canes producing lateral
growth from which flowers arise. Climbers bloom mostly on their old
growth, thus severe pruning will reduce flowering.
Mulching.
Preferred Method!
In the fall, while soil can still be easily worked, mound 10-12” of
soil around the base of the canes. Using a rose collar will help
keep the soil mounded, saving time and soil. We advise using soil
from another garden; digging soil from your rose garden often
results in damage to the bush’s roots. When the soil mound is
frozen solid, usually in early December, pile hay, straw, pine
boughs or other loose material over the canes for additional
protection. Leaves are not recommended, because they can become
matted when wet, smothering the bushes.
Rose
Cones. Styrofoam rose
cones may also be used to protect roses. For best results, the
bushes must be mounded first with 10-12” of soil. After this soil
is frozen solid, usually late November to early December, set the
rose cone over the mounded bush. Cut back the canes only enough, to
fit inside the rose cone. Styrofoam cones may create warm moist
conditions increasing the risk of mold and fungal diseases. To
lessen disease problems, rose cones must be set on very late in the
fall, and removed very early in the spring.
Climbing
Roses. The best method
to protect climbers is to carefully pull the canes down from the
trellis and cover with several inches of soil. After the mound is
frozen solid, cover with hay, pine boughs or other loose material.
Hardy climbers, however, do not require any winter protection and
may be left in place on trellis, fence, or arbor over the winter.
TREE
ROSES. Whether grown in
pots or in the ground, tree roses require special winter
protection. The most successful method of wintering a tree rose is
to uproot it at the end of the growing season and bury the entire
plant in a trench. It should be covered with 8-10” of soil. When
the soil mound freezes mulch it with hay, straw or pine boughs for
additional protection. If you prefer to winter your tree rose in a
pot, it may be kept in an unheated garage. However, the garage must
maintain an even, cool temperature. Severe temperature fluctuations
can damage tree roses. Check soil periodically to maintain
moisture. |
